Monday, 11 February 2013

Part 8 - No more drama




11.02.2013
Morning all,
Hoping you are all doing super.
Well, I’m writing to you after much drama since my last update (actually a fortnight ago).
No more drama
Thanks to everyone for your kind thoughts this earlier this week, particularly EJ and Co. and Claire that managed to effectively mobilise the world and his wife to check on me in the space of about 15 minutes! After a slightly hectic tsunami warning and a request to seek higher ground in the afternoon, the threat to Honiara and surrounding provinces was lowered and the status quo had returned by the following morning.
The same cannot be said for all parts of the Solomons. The epicentre of the earthquake originated just east of the Solomon Islands with a magnitude of 8.0 on the Richter Scale, which subsequently led to a tsunami of water and debris waves reaching 0.9 metres. A few villages in Temotu Province were wiped out and there have been a handful of fatalities. Another earthquake estimated at 7.1 hit the following day led to the destruction of the wharf, which has caused further complication to aid efforts in the area. My friend, Irene, whose been reporting to ABC and the BBC told me today that those in the region have been forced to unload the aid shipment by hand! The serious aftershocks have also caused the Prime Minister’s flight to be aborted. Since Wednesday, around 200 smaller quakes (I know, 200!) ranging 3.0 to 5.0 have been recorded.
I’ll keep you posted as information flows down from those working on the ground.
Just fine
I did, however, have my own life-threatening experience recently. Over the last fortnight, I took my first adventure to Western Province. And boy, was it an adventure. Nothing could have prepared me for what took place that week. Not even the recommendation to bring my life jacket from seasoned travellers at work (or a DWP PAID weekly work plan for that matter).  Not even!
I mentioned last time that the Central Bank is currently preparing for the 2012 Annual Report and part of that is to visit the provincial hubs, Gizo in the west and Auki in the east. My work colleague, Louisa and I went flew to Munda on Monday afternoon and stayed the night. After a night in the busy streets of Munda (there must a have been about 10 buildings in the town), we took the bus to Noro where we were given the opportunity to tour the tuna processing factory (believe me, it was freaking awesome) before taking a small rowing boat with a 25hp motor engine from Noro to Kolombangara. We then visited one of the big logging companies, which is located at the bottom of Mount Kolombangara. The views were spectacular from what we could see. A trek up the volcano is one of the must sees here but alas, no time!
It wasn’t until the morning after that all hell broke loose! We had to take a similar sized boat for 45 minutes from Kolombangara to the provincial capital, Gizo. However, the journey ended up being the scariest journey…EVER! It wasn’t that the journey took 3.5 hours with Louisa and I constantly bouncing a metre high every 3 seconds and then slamming back down on the wooden seat the whole time fearing that we would fall out, or that the heavens poured down on us and the waves kept tearing into the boat unabated, or even that we had to stop for 45 minutes to take shelter from the storm because the visibility was so poor. No, none of that. It was the moment that I looked back at the two drivers (so just the four of us in total) to see utter fear in their eyes and then looked around to find we were in the middle of nowhere; no neighbouring islands, no other signs of life, nothing. By this point, Louisa and I grabbed each other and just prayed.
Thankfully, the drivers persevered and we arrived in one piece. Soaking wet but in one piece. I did, however, have to miss the first meeting of the day (we had 6 that day!) to lie down because I was feeling ready to vomit…Needless to say, I won’t be recommending that leg of the journey to you! Gizo itself was very beautiful. A much quieter more picturesque Honiara.
Be Without You
Since I last wrote you to you, two more friends have subsequently been voted off the island. No… wait…I meant that they have since departed from the hustle and bustle of Honiara. Ugh!  And another friend, Simon, is going back to New Zealand tomorrow. It’s quite annoying and I’ve only been here for 4.5 months!
As several of you have probably experienced, the habit that one formulates quite rapidly is to find out early on (preferably soon after knowing their name) as to how long they’ve got left. I know, I know – totally obnoxious but it can be a significant factor for most! Obviously, not for me as it seems that I get drawn to the ones with imminent departure dates! Charming to say the least.
Even so, it is surprising how quickly I adapt to the situation and how relationships with others appear to shift quite dramatically. A piece of advice that a long standing volunteer friend (4+ years), Erin, gave me was that it’s sad to lose good friends when they leave but you should embrace new friends and arrivals too. She is definitely right.
And fear not, we celebrated Simon’s departure very aptly. The organisers of said event call it Pub Golf, essentially a tour across the drinking establishments of Honiara[1] dressed in the capital’s finest treasures of second hand golfing attire. I call it a stag do!  Regardless, a very good evening was had by all.
One love
I must admit without dispute that I am now officially in love with the Solomons.
Church is fast becoming one of my favourite weekly events (if only it wasn’t a 730 mass[2]) – the singing is ineffable and the provincial visits provide a welcomed distraction of highly energised and visually vibrant tribal dancing to the often yawnful regular proceedings.
However, driving lessons still top the Kenn Fun Chart (KFC)[3]. Since I last wrote, I’ve taken lessons 2 and 3, which have helped me to progress to third gear, dabbling with a little bit of reverse mode action, and going on the open road dodging a tractor and many-a-Hilux. I’m still very proud that my injury count still remains at zero (phew, I hear you whisper) although the more flustered moments saw me pull the hand brake instead of the changing the gear and inadvertently honk the horn quite abrasively in my first attempt to move from 1st to 2nd gear. Go ahead, laugh. I think, in both cases, it’s very funny although the former case is a little disconcerting. I just want to make Theo feel nervous.
I also went snorkelling for the first time since early December and it just reminded me of the setting that I find myself in.  For all those days that I find myself missing home of which there have been more recently, in most cases, I can reassure myself that it’s all worth it by recognising how much I have already learnt and have yet to learn but also appreciate the wonders of this beautiful country. For those other few occasions, there’s nothing that a phone call to ma and pa can’t fix J.
SIFF
I nearly forgot the SIFF for this update[4]…enjoy!

1.       The Spanish explorer, Alvaro de Mendana, first brought Solomon Islands to the attention of the Europeans back in 1568. Mainly Dutch and French settlers were responsible for forming the islands into a grouping, with later influences attributed to the Germans and the British.

2.       The islands of New Georgia, Guadalcanal, Makira and Malaita became a British protectorate in 1893 with Tulagi proclaimed the protectorate capital in 1896. The islands of Santa Cruz, Rennell and Bellona were included between 1898 and 1899. The Shortlands, ChoiseulSanta Isabel and Ontong Java came under the protectorate only in 1900.
3.       The Solomon Islands gained independence from Britain on July 7, 1978.  

Anyway, well it’s time for me to retire as I have lots to plan in anticipation of my first UK visitor – Lukasz is arriving in 19 days! Hooray. Who’s next?
Until next time, take care and God bless.
Kennton x
P.S. Hope you’re enjoying the photos. They should all be up now including from previous updates.







[1] Also known as a pub crawl in many other parts of the world!


[2] It’s actually an 830am mass but due to the traffic, you need to get there an hour before mass so that you have a good chance of getting a seat. The opportunity cost, however, is an hour lost in bed!


[3] Gym STILL ranks last in case you were wondering.


[4][4] All courtesy of Solomon Islands Visitor Bureau























 







Monday, 4 February 2013

Part 7 - On the go


27.01.2013





Hello hello,

I hope this finds you well, ladies and gents. 

Well, it’s been nearly 3 weeks since left the comforts of London and home life. Some days, it feels like time is flying by. Other days, like today for instance, it appears that time misleads me; surely it’s been longer than that, I find myself saying. Thankfully, mother stocked my bulging suitcase with much desired toiletries and chocolate supplies to keep me going...thaaaaanks Mama True!

Bon voyage and bienvenue
It was a strange feeling to come back to Honiara and I do admit that it was much harder leaving the UK this time. I attribute that to leaving loved ones with the knowledge that it will be a significantly longer stint before I see you all again. That said my Honiara Re-immersion Programme 2013 (HRP – no, not Home Responsibilities Protection my dear DWP colleagues J) is now underway, what with my being back at work and my friends returning from their travels, and a tipple or two of Solbrew by the beach.

Full steam ahead
Work is also back with a bang. We’re currently undertaking the Central Bank’s annual report consultations. This means that over the next month, we will be visiting over 100 organisations compromising of government ministries, private sector companies, and donor agencies. Tired much. Just saying!

Just last week, I visited GPPOL, the palm oil plantation; over 9,000 hectares of smelly fruit bunches and a factory to gobble them all up and churn out palm oil and palm kernel oil – fascinating stuff. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to go on a tour this time but if you come to visit (Lukasz, Elena, Cladam, Pipster, Jenny, Lulu – not naming names), I can organise one. Even more exciting is next week’s itinerary. Tomorrow, my work colleague and I will be flying to Western Province for four days. We’ll be visiting the tuna cannery and speaking to the major (nasty) logging companies. I think the most worrying/exciting[1] part is the anticipated boat ride from Ringgi to Gizo. I’ve been recommended by the seasoned travellers in the office to take my life jacket just in case the tiny rowing boat capsizes…troubling thoughts.


All change please, all change
The new year has also brought much change, not only in the arrival of the rainy season (what’s that rhyme again…rain rain, go away…) but also to the fun and frolics that Honiara offers. Netball training is intensifying and my biceps (what exists of them) are receiving the workout of the century from the new gym routine! Must…beat…the…rice…belly!

I’d say the highlight so far since returning has been that Theo has started teaching me to drive this month. I had my first driving lesson in the airport car park and yes, Mike and Char, the car, Theo and myself are surprisingly still in one piece. Furthermore, no innocent bystanders or pedestrians were hurt in the process (very funny, Lukasz). Who knows, if I carry on like this, I might be on the road before the end of my two year placement J I know,  I can’t quite believe it myself.


Introducing…The Solomon Islands Fact File (SIFF)
Well kids, just before I go there was one thing that I have noticed about my previous updates – I have yet to introduce you all to this rather exceptional country with comprehension and detail that you duly deserve. Therefore, I have taken it upon myself to initiate…wait for it…yes, you guessed it…the Solomon Islands Fact File. This will be simple reading compromising of a tantalising trio of Solomon Islands facts. In this edition, they are:

1.       Solomon Islands, located east of Papua New Guinea, comprise of 992 islands made up of 9 provinces[2]. They are Central, Choiseul, Guadacanal, Honiara (the capital), Isabel, Makira, Malaita, Rennell & Bellona, Temotu. Land area in total covers 28,400 square kilometres.

2.       Official figures estimate the population to be around 515,000[3] consisting of around 90,000 households and an average family size of 5.5. However, the population is likely to be higher; the World Bank figures suggest the population has increased to 550,000.

3.       The majority of Solomon Islanders are Melanesians, roughly 94.5%. The other main groups are Polynesians (3%), Micronesians (1.2%)[4].


Well, I best get ready for my trip. Packed my trusty Cladam torch, the lifesaving Savlon, and most importantly, my camera J. Wish me luck!

A bientot!


Kennton xx

P.S. Send me an email please!  Missing you all very much.




[1] Depending if you are risk averse or risk-loving.

[2] Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau, 2013

[3] Solomon Islands Census, 2011

[4] CIA World Factbook 2013 but figures are based on 1999 census. 2011 census figures currently unavailable.